Immies Showing Off?

As we approached an island lighthouse, which was quite interesting to see in its own right, we saw that there were dozens of eagles standing on the ground, clustered on the lighthouse itself, or walking on the beach. We had learned that all eagles in Alaska are bald eagles, but the characteristic white head does not come at birth. The immature eagles --- hence the term "immies" -- take up to three years to grow into their adulthood and their majestic look.

As we neared the island, I saw two immies on a rock and could almost hear teenagers talking. "What do you wanna do? . . . I don't know, what do you wanna do? . . . I don't know, just hang out, I guess." We have all heard the script so often. Then the talk was over, wasn't it, as one closed the discussion with "Hey, watch this . . . " I heard the captions in my mind as the shutter was clicking. And later, I was pleased to see that I had caught the tableau. It was a highlight of the day and of the trip.

After docking from Capt. Rob's wonderful tour, we headed back to Ketchikan for a surprising added bit of fun. That is for the next post.

Lighthouse, Totems & Eagles

Our arrival on Saturday in Ketchikan found a sunny sky in a town that had seen rain for several straight days. A vibrant downtown left a positive impression and we boarded a bus for a short trip up the coast to see a lighthouse, totems and some eagles. While the title sounded good, it fell far short of the wonderful adventure we were in for. At the dock we boarded a comfortable boat captained by Capt. Rob Holston, who narrated and guided us on a great morning's trip.

Yes, we saw a lighthouse. Yes, we saw totems on display in a totem park, and we were able to do so without leaving the boat. And yes, we saw eagles. Oh, did we ever see eagles. As Capt. Rob toured the route he knows so well, he showed us an abandoned logging camp built right on the water, several opulent seaside mansions, and -- count them -- 15 giant eagles nests. And on the sunkist morning, we saw at least 60 eagles, many of them sitting majestically on their aeries and others in full flight. The clatter of clicking cameras was almost constant as the eager tourists saw memorable images virtually any way they looked.

Readers of this blog over the past two weeks know that day after day we had wonderful experiences and a ton of adventure. But after we were back aboard ship, we were asked to evaluate our excursions, and Capt. Rob and his crew drew our highest rankings. It was such a wonderful morning that we will have to return to the boat on the next post. We will see the eagles who were visiting the lighthouse.

Lady Baltimore

Cruisers know that time on land is valuable, and in various locations they gravitate to an excursion that is so quick and easy to access that it gives the most enjoyment for the least expenditure of time. Many shorelines large enough for modern cruise ships are not adjoining high ridges or hills, but a few of them are. When one has a tram or sky ride, it is often anchored near the ship dock and is always worth the time it takes to grab the view. In the Caribbean, for instance, we always tram up on St. Thomas in the United States Virgin Islands.

In Juneau, the tram is an easy walk to the ship and the skyline views -- along with the sky view of the cruise ship -- are certainly worth the ride. And in our case, as we were on the up ride, I looked down and snapped a photo of a sizable brown bear directly below us. The town to the right and the ship to the left as we looked down offered several interesting images as well. And none of those images ranks with the feature at the top of the ridge. On the way to the expected gift shop, we found Lady Baltimore.

The bald eagle is in a large cage and will spend the rest of her life there for her own protection. As the photo shows, she has been blinded in one eye but a careless hunter, who shot her, striking her in the beak. When she turns her head, viewers can see the gnarled wound, which drove her to the ground, blinding her eye and causing other injuries. She has recovered from all but the blindness, which makes her incapable of caring for herself in the wild. Now fed well and apparently comfortable as the Lady of the area and the star of the show, she strikes me as a majestic survivor. I see strength, resolution, and dedication in the powerful eagle and I wish her a long life. When I return to Alaska, as I no doubt will, I will tram up to say hello to her once again. Until then, best wishes to Lady Baltimore.

It was time to tram down, walk to the pier, and board ship. One stop left, in Ketchikan, would feature more eagles. These eagles, free and plentiful, are the stars of the next post.

Green Angel Gardens

Green Angel Gardens, outside Juneau, is a wonderful peaceful oasis of natural beauty. Our final stop on a tour of Juneau, this easy-to-enjoy location features bright flowers, as seen here, a gentle walking trail, and lots of things to see. A family business operated by transplanted Alaskans, they show maps and items that display native customs and traditions.

As noted in an earlier post, the long hours of daylight combine with a lack of the withering heat of much of the lower 48 states to provide greenery and flowers that are as beautiful as any garden lover could wish to see. Be certain when you plan an Alaska trip to set aside time for one or more of the lush gardens of the 49th state.

From Green Angel, our bus took us back to town, but we did not immediately board ship. Instead we trammed up the mountain. We visit Lady Baltimore on the next post.

Mendenhall Glacier

Funny how some words stick and affect all your perceptions. In Glacier Bay we saw Marjorie Glacier. With that pretty name, we saw a feminine side, a beauty that stood out in the rugged landscape. Aboard ship, we were awestruck as we watched her calve.

Today, we are outside the Alaskan Capitol city of Juneau, off a tour bus and standing on a viewing platform that would have been under the Mendenhall Glacier just fifty years ago. A masculine name attached to the glacier, just as much a frozen river as any other, lends it a strength that makes it a perfect complement to Marjorie. It even has more blue color to it.

The Mendenhall setting is quite peaceful, with a trail promoting movement. As you walk, you see the glacier in differing angles and differing lights, and you see the still water acting as a reflecting pool for various islands and trees. Many interesting and colorful birds fly all through the area, adding more to see and trilling their summer songs. The adventure of memories includes all the senses, and Alaska has treats for ears as well as eyes.

We left Mendenhall on the way to a beautiful garden. We stop there on the next post.

DOUBT: A Parable

Looks like I will be going to see the recent Meryl Streep movie this week. The Steel Beam Theatre in downtown St. Charles Illinois is staging an outstanding 100-minute live performance of the original John Peter Shanley script, a live dramatic play. Titled as above, Doubt: A Parable is a probing look at doubt and certainty and at the difficult choices we make as we live out our lives. Certainly there are thousands of people who have seen Ms. Streep, the finest actress of our time. But once I knew I would be attending this version, I decided not to see the film. Now, having enjoyed the outstanding work of this quartet of actors, I feel compelled to see the film as directed by Shanley himself.

Director Terence Domschke lead Dennis Edwards as Father Flynn and Donna Steele as Sister Aloysius in a riveting clash of opponents. The questions arise from the certainty that the nun, the 1964 school principal, feels compels her to "bring down" the priest she mistrusts. Both priest and nun have issues of their own involved. We all wonder how to gain the certainty that will bring down evil and promote good, and how we can act that way without causing evil in the process. Is anyone wise enough to follow through? Is anyone perfect enough to withstand a malevolent scrutiny designed to destroy? Loads of things to ponder.

In a discussion period following the play, I commented that over 50 years ago I and all my classmates watched Davy Crockett, King of the Wild Frontier and learned his motto: Be sure you are right, then go ahead. In just a few short years, I realized that if we waited to "be sure," we might never get anything done. In a few more years, I learned the disturbing truth about Davy Crockett, who was no hero in many ways. Perhaps he has been better characterized as a drunk.

No pictures to add tonight, and no answers to the tough questions posed by the fine script and powerful actors. Just the questions.

Salmon Run Finish Line

The State Capitol of Alaska, Juneau, is a busy place to visit. On our one day, we saw an outstanding museum, visited an awesome glacier, took a tram up a mountain, and dropped by the finish line of the salmon run. We will look at Juneau over a few posts, but the salmon ladder came in the morning and will be our first stop.

As a Chicagoan not particularly interested in fishing, I was struck by the photos I took back in Anchorage as the salmon had begun running. I had read about the run and also about the ladders, but had no clear understanding. In Anchorage we had seen dozens of fishermen in the stream, pulling salmon out of the water one by one. But here, in Juneau, we saw how much effort and dedication these animals put into their life-ending spawn. Watching them on the ladder, striving and driving, avoiding little gates and literally jumping the walls to rise to the top, the salmon truly put every ounce of effort into the work. Against the stream, they get pushed back but only redouble their efforts to arrive at the top. The ladder images shows how the salmon must swim to the left, turn and swim to the right, each time leaping the series of walls that slowly but eventually will carry them to the top with thousands of their peers.

There, the harvesters separate the males from the females, and then harvest the milk as seen in the picture. The male had been stunned by an electric shock and poked to access the milk. While he will be dead momentarily, that was his fate in any case and the stunning will make the end peaceful for him. To see male after milk spurting out the last energy of his life, finishing his lifelong odyssey, contributing to the future generations, is completely awesome.

Soon after we reached the finish line along with some of the salmon, we got back on the bus and headed for Mendenhall Glacier. But not without thinking back over what we had seen in the dedication and effort of these salmon. Our blog will arrive at Mendenhall with the next post.